California boasts popular wine regions like Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley, and produces more than 680 million gallons of wine annually. That’s 84% of our nation’s output, according to data from World Population Review. New York is the third leading state, behind California and Washington, quietly producing more than 28 million gallons of wine annually.
While New York’s Finger Lakes and Hudson River regions receive much attention, a budding region along the Canadian border surprises visitors with unique wines. Staff from two Thousand Islands wineries share insight into how the unexpected wine region adapts to deliver exceptional experiences.
Challenging Climate Yields Unique Wines
While Napa Valley famously produces Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, New York vineyards’ grapes grow in cooler climates. Finger Lakes wineries produce a variety of “cold-hardy” grapes, including Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc.
Still, further north, Thousand Islands faces additional climate challenges.
Kristina Randazzo Ives, co-owner of Coyote Moon Vineyards, says, “We are considered a northern climate, which means that our area is very specific to the kinds of grapes we grow. What sets us apart is the Lake Ontario region, and specifically the Saint Lawrence River, which creates its own microclimate. The varieties we grow are called cold-hardy grapes, hybrids developed by the University of Minnesota.
“Varieties specifically that we grow are the following: Frontenac (red), Marquette (red), Frontenac Gris (white wine that is gold to amber or salmon in color), La Crescent (white, very similar to Riesling), and Frontenac Blanc (white), which we were the first winery in the United States to bottle.”
Jack Losecco, vineyard manager at Grindstone Island Winery, says, “Due to the potential for deep winter freezes, Grindstone Island favors growing American cold hardy varieties to include Marquette, Frontenac, Prairie Star, and LaCrescent. Baco Noir, our signature French-American hybrid grape, is less cold hardy but can be grown due to a combination of the buffering effects of the surrounding river, which seldom completely freezes over, and the low altitude.”
Challenges Beyond Climate
Grindstone Island Winery sits on its namesake island, which is primarily undeveloped. Chris Noveh, the winery’s general manager and vintner, says, “There are several challenges operating a winery on an island with practically no infrastructure, ferries or bridges.
“The winery is really the only business on the entire island of Grindstone. So, as you can imagine, all items needed for winemaking have to be brought to the island by boat. Larger items must be barged over. All food and beverage deliveries must be met and picked up on the mainland and boated over, and all outgoing deliveries of bottled wine are brought to the mainland by boat.”
These are just a few challenges of running an island winery. Noveh jokingly quips, “Add about five steps to everything. But it is a labor of love.”
Grindstone Island Winery continues to grow despite its climate and logistical challenges. Noveh comments, “Publicity has not been too much of an issue. The power of spoken word has been our best form of publicity. The majority of our off-island guests discovered us through friends who have visited. Who wouldn’t want to venture to an island to find a beautiful winery tucked away in the center? We are also pretty active on social media, which has definitely boosted our attendance numbers.”
Visitors Find the Thousand Island Wineries a Pleasant Surprise
Randazzo Ives remarks, “I think the varieties of grapes we grow are so unknown that we are underestimated when it comes to making quality wine. On a good challenge, we are pioneering these varieties to be known and appreciated and to give colder regions growing opportunities. Overall, we enjoy meeting people from all over the country, and it’s always so rewarding to surprise and please guests when they happen upon us.”
Island Experience
Beyond producing wines from cold-hardy grapes, the Thousand Island wineries provide unique experiences.
Noveh shares, “The majority of our guests absolutely love the fact that Grindstone is so rustic and undeveloped, often getting glimpses of local wildlife like deer, porcupines, and even river otters on route to and from the winery.”
Guests may notice historical landmarks such as the old Grindstone Cheese Factory, which closed its doors in 1959, and single-classroom schoolhouses dating back to the mid-1800s.
Noveh remarks, “We believe it definitely adds to the charm and fun of getting to us. Several guests choose to hike the three to four miles to the winery just so they can get a closer look at the island, which sometimes feels a lot like going back in time.”
Wine Cruises
Coyote Moon Vineyards delights guests in other ways; their Coyote Moon on the River location offers wine cruises. Randazzo Ives says, “Wine cruises have become a staple for Coyote Moon. We are the only winery offering this in the Thousand Islands.”
As many as 50 passengers can board the boats, each receiving a bottle of wine during a two-hour St. Lawrence River cruise.
Randazzo Ives comments, “We feel that this has significantly impacted our business. It sets us apart from other wineries in the area.”
A Delightful Pairing
Coyote Moon’s vineyard location offers unique culinary experiences. Guests can pair wines with bakery items or dishes that combine fine dining concepts with food truck creativity.
Randazzo Ives says, “In Sicily, having a baked item with wine or coffee is a regular thing, and we wanted our customers to share in that experience. Nothing beats a cannoli and glass of wine!”
She elaborates on their other culinary option, “It’s important to evolve and expand your business if you want to survive in the North Country. Having Chef Ives has definitely taken our winery to the next level. He was formerly the executive chef of the Saint Lawerence Chateau, a farm-to-table fine dining experience in the Thousand Islands.
“He has brought that same level of attention to detail and passion for creating dishes even if it’s in a “shack,” which I think makes the experience so much better and leaves people totally shocked that they can get five-star dining out of a small shed.”
Stepping Out of the Shadows
California’s dominance of the U.S. wine industry casts a shadow over states like Washington and New York. While regions like Napa Valley receive much attention, the Thousand Islands wineries quietly create unique wines and experiences that will likely draw more visitors soon.
